Cultural identity of a country or region is closely linked to its traditional dresses and holds special significance for the members of a community. Ladakh is an Indian state located in the higher reaches of the Karakoram and Himalayan ranges. Traditional Ladakhi dresses not only mirror the socioeconomic and cultural moorings of the Ladakhi folks but also play a practical role by protecting the wearers against the harsh weather conditions especially the cold.
A wide range of fabrics, right from locally available pashmina and wool to imported textiles, is used to make traditional garments for men and women in Ladakh. The diversity of textiles and traditional dresses are particularly on display during religious ceremonies and festive occasions. Let’s have a look at some of the most prominent traditional dresses worn by men and women in Ladakh.
1. Goncha
Goncha or Kos is a voluminous coat-like robe worn by men. It is made of a combination of multiple fabrics, such as polyester, wool, cotton and velvet. However, gonchas worn during weddings are made of silk, velvet or brocade, imported from Bhutan and Nepal. The goncha is tied around the waist using a belt made of thick fabric called skeyraks. It is buttoned from the left shoulder down the length. The style of the collar has a Chinese touch and there are knee-length slits along the sides.
Goncha is commonly available in black, grey, burgundy and earthly colours. However, gonchas for weddings are available in bright colours. Men usually wear goncha over a shirt and a pair of loose-fitted straight trousers below. Overall style of Goncho is influenced by Chinese gyazo, Tibetan pot-zo and Mongolian sokzo varieties of robe designs.
2. Sulma
Sulma is a full-length flowing robe worn by married Ladakhi women. The design of Sulma developed in Ladakh with some influence from Tibetan and Central Asian garment styles. Sulma is made of wool, brocade, velvet and silk, and comes in brightly coloured varieties. It has a round neck and long sleeves which can be folded up during summers. The wide and voluminous skirt of the sulma makes it easy and comfortable for the women to work in their homes or fields. The robe is devoid of buttons and has a brightly coloured sash or skeyraks instead to secure it around the waist.
Sulma is stitched in the manner of a ball gown. Women usually wear a blouse made of silk, cotton or nylon below the sulma. However, women in the Kargil region also wear shirts under their sulma.
3. Kos Kar
Changthang is a high plateau area located in the eastern part of Ladakh near the Chinese border adjoining Pangong Lake and Tso Miri Lake. A semi-nomadic tribe called Changpas inhabit this plateau. Kos Kar or Lawa Goncha is the traditional dress of this tribe, worn by both men and women. This is a thick whitish robe made of sheep wool and skin turned inside put. Kos Kar is extremely warm and rugged which makes it perfect to protect the body against the harsh weather conditions of the Changthang plateau.
Kos Kar differentiates the Changpas from the other communities inhabiting Ladakh. It is paired with shoes made of sheep wool and skin which protects against the cold and helps in negotiating the challenging terrain.
4. Yogar and Lokpa
Yogar and Lokpa are squared shaped capes worn by Ladakhi women around the shoulders to cover their back. Both yogar and lokpa are made of sheepskin with woolen part on the inside to provide warmth to the wearer. Yogar features cotton or silk embroidery, sheep wool lining and rainbow tassels. Lokpa, on the other hand, is devoid of any embroidery or design and features only sheepskin.
Yogar and Lokpa not only provide warmth but also act as a cushion to carry heavy loads on the back. A designer Yogar is called Bok which is meant for special occasions.
If you are interested to know about other culture dress than see this Traditional Dress of Kerala.
